The oldest of the Imperial cities, Fes is the cultural heart of Morocco.  It has also long considered itself the center of Islamic orthodoxy.  The medina of Fes el-Bali (Old Fes) is one of the largest living medieval cities in the world and the most interesting in Morocco. UNESCO has deemed it a World Heritage City and is working to stop its deterioration.  Well established by 809 AD, its original inhabitants came from the Berber tribes and Jewish tribes living in the surrounding hills, but were quickly out-number by the 8000 families fleeing Al-Andalus (Spain) and then the Arab families from the Kairouan (Tunisia).  The latter of these families built the Kairouan Mosque and University.  The mosque can hold over 20,000 people and was built with the university alongside between 859 and 862, making it the one of the oldest universities in the world.  It has long had one of the finest libraries in the Muslim world, and there are usually 300 students in residence.
The entrance to the Nejjarine fondouq (wood-workers collective) dominates this small square deep in the heart of Fes.  Posing for the picture was Mohammed (in the stripes) and his friend.  Mohammed has grown up in the medina and although he stopped going to school by age 8,  he makes money as a faux-guide.  Remarkably he can speak his native Dareeja ( the Moroccan dialect of Classic Arabic), Foosa (Classical Arabic), French (the administrative language of Morocco), English, Spanish, and German.  He learned all these by coming in contact with tourists as a young child and spending his days in the medina.  He was always a pleasure to run into in the medina.
The Tanneries: These tanneries and the art behind tanning leather dates back over 7000 years.  The tanning process uses pigeon poo, cow urine, fish oils, animal fats and brains, chromium salts and sulfuric acids and so the tanneries are one of the worst smelling places I visited.  But a sprig of mint leaf held to your nose will help and allow you to focus on this ancient and time-honored trade.
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