Desolation Sound
      A 3-Month Cruise in Paradise


      Ave Maria
      What else could I play... in such surroundings?
      >

      06.27

      This is the day that I got to sail up Princess Louisa Inlet. Finally. And was the long wait worth it? You bet! My God, what a wonderful sight! This is getting to be a habit but I again am speechless!


      RCMP Patrol launch beating it out of Malibu
      We all gave him the right of way!
      At 45 knot... you don't fool around!

      I just can't describe it in words. I only have one regret, and a major one. It is that Jules is not here with me to share this view. I departed Queens Reach at 0830, under sail under a very, very light breeze. A good thing I left at the start of the ebb tide. It almost carried me right up to the rapids although I was afraid I had mis-calculated the slack time. I fired up the motor but then, I had to wait at the entrance for about an hour for the slack. But, no matter.


      Rock-a-bye

      by Margi

      I lazily made my way down the Inlet, crisscrossing it to get a closer look at several of the falls crashing down the mountain on both sides. The rapids are a cinch to take, at slack water. Then, after the first bend, .... oh God! It's just beautiful, beyond description. Although there was nary a puff of wind, I switched off the motor and let the tide take me along. I again criss-crossed the Inlet to go have a closer look at various points of interest, such as circling MacDonald Island and finally, made it at the floating dock where I tied up, hoping never having to leave again.


      Getting there..... Admiring the view.

      Besides the fantastic scenery, there is one added advantage here:there is no moorage or docking fee whatsoever! When MacDonald (Mac) donated the whole area to be made into a marine park, he stipulated that there was never to be any dockage fee to yachtsmen. Good ole Mac. See pamphlet for details.

      It is no use trying to describe this area in words. Besides, Erle Stanley Gardner has done so more than eloquently in his book 'Log of a Landlubber'. And I quote "There is no use describing that Inlet. Perhaps an atheist could view it and remain an atheist, but I doubt it. There is a calm tranquility which stretches from the smooth surface of the reflecting water straight up into infinity. The deep calm of eternal silence is only disturbed by the muffled roar of throbbing waterfalls as they plunge down from sheer cliffs.

      There is no scenery in the world that can beat it. Not that I've seen the rest of the world. I don't need to, I've seen Princess Louisa Inlet.

      Every day showed new glimpses of nature. Constantly changing clouds clung to the sheer cliffs for companionship,drifting lightly from crag to crag, lazily floating along above their swimming reflections giving new light combinations, new contours.

      Clouds, water, trees, mountains, snow and sky all seem to be perpetually the same through the countless ages of eternal time and yet, to be changing hourly. One views the scenery with bared head and choking feeling of the throat. It is more than beautiful. it is sacred!"

      And I add to this ...... Amen!


      Docked at the foot of Chatterbox Falls

      I talked extensively with the skipper of a million dollar floating palace docked next to my dinghy. A very nice fella from San Francisco (boat's name: Adele, S.F.). He also owns a 42 foot ketch which he has sailed throughout the coast (and the rest of the world, it seems). I learned a lot from that old salt. He gave me a thirty minute tutorial on how to interpret the tide tables. There is more to it than I thought. Now, although still not an expert, I'll be able to use them more intelligently and with more confidence.

      He also gave me quite a spiel on the nice spots to visit further north. It is meeting people such as this man that makes sailing these waters so interesting and enjoyable.On the practical side, I have re-arranged the facilities in the boat, perhaps now for the last time. I have placed the propane tank in the corner by the cabinet I have made. in this way, I can easily slide the stove in and out from its normal storage area under the lazarette and everything I need to do the cooking is easily within reach.


      Boats at anchor in front of Chatterbox Falls

      Also, by sitting on the bed, I can use the stove top as a working area to make cigarettes, for example. And best yet, I can easily reach at night and turn on the stove for heat, if required. When Jules comes down, as I sincerely hope she does, I will also install the catalytic heater on its own propane tank and use it to heat the cabin

      It once again has been a most beautiful and enjoyable day. If I ever have second thoughts about having retired early, all I'll have to do is to re-read this particular log and look at the photographs I have taken. It should bring me back to reason.

      I have a hunch that this year's sailing season will not end in early September as it did in the past years. With a little luck, I should be able to come back to this area for two weeks with Jules then, come back again for a last cruise before laying the boat up for the winter. Come to think of it, I don't think I will cruise the islands much this summer. Not after having experienced this particular sailing area. And I haven't been to Desolation Sound yet! Hit the sack at midnight. I just couldn't stop looking at those falls.

      Goodnight world.

      Note: Little did I know at this point this cruise would last 93 days! And yes.... I made it back to Louisa several times in the coming years. And yes, my wife did make it, and... loved it!

      On with the cruise...

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