Desolation Sound A 3-Month Cruise in Paradise |
This is the day that I got to sail up Princess Louisa Inlet. Finally.
And was the long wait worth it? You bet! My God, what a wonderful
sight! This is getting to be a habit but I again am speechless!
I just can't describe it in words. I only have one regret, and a major
one. It is that Jules is not here with me to share this view. I
departed Queens Reach at 0830, under sail under a very, very light
breeze. A good thing I left at the start of the ebb tide. It almost
carried me right up to the rapids although I was afraid I had
mis-calculated the slack time. I fired up the motor but then, I had to
wait at the entrance for about an hour for the slack. But, no matter.
I lazily made my way down the Inlet, crisscrossing it to get a closer
look at several of the falls crashing down the mountain on both sides.
The rapids are a cinch to take, at slack water. Then, after the first
bend, .... oh God! It's just beautiful, beyond description. Although
there was nary a puff of wind, I switched off the motor and let the
tide take me along. I again criss-crossed the Inlet to go have a closer
look at various points of interest, such as circling MacDonald Island
and finally, made it at the floating dock where I tied up, hoping never
having to leave again.
It is no use trying to describe this area in words. Besides, Erle
Stanley Gardner has done so more than eloquently in his book 'Log of a
Landlubber'. And I quote "There is no use describing that Inlet.
Perhaps an atheist could view it and remain an atheist, but I doubt it.
There is a calm tranquility which stretches from the smooth surface of
the reflecting water straight up into infinity. The deep calm of
eternal silence is only disturbed by the muffled roar of throbbing
waterfalls as they plunge down from sheer cliffs.
There is no scenery in the world that can beat it. Not that I've seen
the rest of the world. I don't need to, I've seen Princess Louisa
Inlet.
Every day showed new glimpses of nature. Constantly changing clouds
clung to the sheer cliffs for companionship,drifting lightly from crag
to crag, lazily floating along above their swimming reflections giving
new light combinations, new contours.
Clouds, water, trees, mountains, snow and sky all seem to be
perpetually the same through the countless ages of eternal time and
yet, to be changing hourly. One views the scenery with bared head and
choking feeling of the throat. It is more than beautiful. it is
sacred!"
And I add to this ...... Amen!
He also gave me quite a spiel on the nice spots to visit further north.
It is meeting people such as this man that makes sailing these waters
so interesting and enjoyable.On the practical side, I have re-arranged
the facilities in the boat, perhaps now for the last time. I have
placed the propane tank in the corner by the cabinet I have made. in
this way, I can easily slide the stove in and out from its normal
storage area under the lazarette and everything I need to do the
cooking is easily within reach.
It once again has been a most beautiful and enjoyable day. If I ever
have second thoughts about having retired early, all I'll have to do is
to re-read this particular log and look at the photographs I have
taken. It should bring me back to reason.
I have a hunch that this year's sailing season will not end in early
September as it did in the past years. With a little luck, I should be
able to come back to this area for two weeks with Jules then, come back
again for a last cruise before laying the boat up for the winter. Come
to think of it, I don't think I will cruise the islands much this
summer. Not after having experienced this particular sailing area. And
I haven't been to Desolation Sound yet! Hit the sack at midnight. I
just couldn't stop looking at those falls.
Goodnight world.
Note: Little did I know at this point this cruise
would last 93 days! And yes.... I made it back to Louisa several times
in the coming years. And yes, my wife did make it, and... loved it!
06.27
RCMP Patrol launch beating it out of Malibu
We all gave him the right of way!
At 45 knot... you don't fool around!
Rock-a-bye
by Margi
Getting there..... Admiring the view.
Besides the fantastic scenery, there is one added advantage here:there
is no moorage or docking fee whatsoever! When MacDonald (Mac) donated
the whole area to be made into a marine park, he stipulated that there
was never to be any dockage fee to yachtsmen. Good ole Mac. See
pamphlet for details.
Docked at the foot of Chatterbox Falls
I talked extensively with the skipper of a million dollar floating
palace docked next to my dinghy. A very nice fella from San Francisco
(boat's name: Adele, S.F.). He also owns a 42 foot ketch which he has
sailed throughout the coast (and the rest of the world, it seems). I
learned a lot from that old salt. He gave me a thirty minute tutorial
on how to interpret the tide tables. There is more to it than I
thought. Now, although still not an expert, I'll be able to use them
more intelligently and with more confidence.
Boats at anchor in front of Chatterbox Falls
Also, by sitting on the bed, I can use the stove top as a working area
to make cigarettes, for example. And best yet, I can easily reach at
night and turn on the stove for heat, if required. When Jules comes
down, as I sincerely hope she does, I will also install the catalytic
heater on its own propane tank and use it to heat the cabin On with the cruise...