Welcome to my training section! I will add a new 
article every week, hopefully, since there are so many subjects out 
there to write about.  If you have any questions, comments, or ideas, 
feel free to voice them.

This Week's Topic:
      Picking Up Leads

  If you've worked with a horse who simply will not take it's correct 
lead, you know what a frustrating problem it is.  The horse avoids
your commands repeatedly, seeming to not know what you're asking. 

   Hold up there, cowgirl-before you break into that lope once more,
get your horse checked up by a vet to rule out the possibility of a
problem.  Even a minor problem can create discomfort, causing the 
horse to avoid using it's legs in a certain way. Your saddle fit, or 
another type of back problem your horse has could cause it.  Luckily,
there are easy and fairly economical solutions for many health 
conditions.  Giving a small amount of Chondroiton powder, or 
glucosamine if you like, every day can put your horse back to normal
by building up strength in the joints, while acupuncture, massage 
therapy or a chiropractor may help your horse's back.  

    If your problem turns out not to be a health one, a method of 
getting your horse to pick up the correct lead is by tipping it's 
head to the outside as you ride down the arena.  If you keep the head 
tipped until the horse breaks into the canter, it SHOULD take the 
lead.  An instructor should supervise this, if for nothing more than
pointers and encouragement, because it may not work the first time, 
and may take a higher level of pressure.  

    Once you feel you know how to get the lead, practice taking it. 
 Also, do bending exercises, particularly tracking in the direction 
your horse has a problem with.  The horse's muscles may be less built
up on that side, causing it to naturally strike out with the 'wrong' 
lead.  


 Backing Up

   When backing, we are tempted to give short squeezes along with 
rein aids.  It's sort of the rub-your-tummy, pat-your-head scenario--
you have to give short, continuous rein pulls while maintaining a 
steady leg pressure.  Try it, and see if it doesn't fine-tune an 
already good backup, and help your horse be more responsive.


    Catching Your Horse

   All our horses evade us at some point when we try to catch them
in the field.  (I got the idea to write this because my horse was
horrible the other day.)  They run away, hide behind your friends,
you name it, just to get out of working.  There is a system of
body language to get your horse to come, and this is what alot of
trainers and the 'horse whisperer' use.  
    Never approach your horse directly, or make eye contact.  Do it 
from an angle.  This training technique says that if your horse starts 
to run away, make them run faster (this would require a more confined
space, probably.)  If they look at you, and show signs of wanting
to stop, let them.    (This is only one step of the process to make
your horse more responsive to you.)

     You can make your horse want to come to you by spending time
with it doing stuff other than riding.  Take some time to just groom,
or feed him hay & carrots, and sometimes just bring him out of the
field for nothing other than that purpose.  Then he'll start thinking,
'hey, coming out of the field isn't that bad.'  He'll like spending
time with you more. You could call this bribery in advance.  Or, you 
could just call it making your time with your horse more enjoyable 
for both of you.

      Bits

     There are many things to consider for a bit.  It must be suited
to your horse's training and what you want to do with it.  It is not
a good idea to use a strong bit on a green broke horse, or in most
cases, on any horse with nothing past basic training.  They need 
someone to work with them, not put on a stronger bit.  The rider's
ability must also be taken into consideration.  Do they balance 
(at all) off their reins?  Do they have a good seat, and good hands?
Only experienced riders should use strong bits, and then only under
their trainer's recommendation.  
     Parts of a bit:

* Port  (Not all bits have one; it is the raised portion in the
         middle of the mouthpiece.  THe higher it is, the more
         severe.)

* Curb chain, or curb strap  
      (This can connect to the bottom of the bit, and goes under
       the horse's lip.  It can be tightened or loosened)

* Rings  (The ends of the bit, which are outside the horse's mouth,
          and hold the reins.  Round ones are a little easier)

* Shank  (Long part on some bits that comes down the side of the mouth.
          Longer ones are more severe.)

      Some bits are made of sweet iron, to make them more appealing
to the horse.  Some are copper and steel, and some are even plastic
or rubber  (These kind would be snaffles).  Bits can range from a
solid fat rubber mouthpiece to a thin twisted wire bit, or one with
a cathedral mouthpiece, which is very high.  The thinner a bit is, the 
more severe it is.  Horses' mouths are very sensitive, and they all work
differently in bits, so be sure to learn about what ones to use from a 
good trainer.